Even for the casual wine drinker, sustainability should be a priority. Strictly from a quality standpoint, wine made using sustainable techniques tends to be better tasting vino. Biodynamic farming practices that treat the health of the soil, animals and crops as a single system produce bountiful harvests year after year, which helps wineries stay in business. Sustainable, biodynamic and regenerative agriculture all share the common goal of preserving the planet and minimizing human intervention so the earth and all the organisms it supports will continue to thrive for years to come.
It is not difficult to say that the future of winemaking, as we know, depends on how growers choose to cultivate their vines today. Look beyond cookie-cutter labels like “organic” or simply avoiding pesticides and instead focus on deeper changes, such as holistic farming practices that seek to restore soil health using cover crops, soilless farming, rotational grazing and composting. Many manufacturers are also adopting techniques that reduce their overall carbon footprint, such as switching to lightweight bottles, implementing solar power to avoid using fossil fuels, and prioritizing extensive water recycling.
Winemakers who practice regenerative agriculture are not just making better wine; they are doing their part to preserve the planet for future generations. IN China Vineyards in Carneros, for example, winemakers Chris Kayani know that the proximity of wealth to San Francisco has the ability to affect the climate of the city.
“In China The vineyards, we’re a fully owned property and we live and breathe grapes and wine, but we also live in this dirt, breathe this air and drink this water,” she says. “We’ve been here for over 40 years, by the San Francisco Bay, and everything we do in our vineyards can affect the natural ecosystem. We are committed to sustainable and fish-friendly farming, water conservation, the use of beneficial insects and sheep to mow the vineyard, and a focus on green vineyard and wine standards.
Seeking out small wine labels and independent producers who focus on sustainability is one way to help push the rest of the industry towards these methods. As the wine world has recently moved towards eco-friendly standards, there is still considerable work to be done. Corporate winemaking is notorious for its use of additives and pesticides, and greenwashing is rampant, meaning labels pretend to be environmentally conscious while hiding their harmful practices behind buzzwords.
On the other end of the spectrum, some labels are dedicated to reclaiming their land. Will Henryco-owner and winemaker at The river Santa Barbara County wines go above and beyond industry standards. “At Lumen, it starts with farming, and sustainable farming doesn’t go far enough to describe what we do,” he says. “We’re certified organic, but we also use regenerative practices. The ultimate goal of which is the long-term health of the soil. We don’t use any chemical sprays and have to do most of the work by hand.”
The river it also takes care of the animals that graze the vineyards and composts them. “We use wine waste—skins, stems, etc.—and food waste from our restaurant. There is almost no waste that our vineyards or winery produce; almost everything is recycled back into the system,” he explains.
California accounts for 85 percent of US wine production, and Oregon and Washington aren’t far behind. A large number of West Coast producers, in particular, have taken steps to implement sustainable practices as the regions here grow in stature. Ahead of Earth Day, here’s a selection of bottles from winemakers who prioritize the health of the planet while also making fantastic wine in the process.
