In Positano, there’s no escaping the crowds, who flock to the picturesque Amalfi Coast town between March and October. WHEREAS Positano has become iconic for its colorful cliffside buildings and umbrella-covered beaches, Praiano, its neighbor down the road, is less famous. Perched on the edge of the cliff with endless views of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Praiano is just as picturesque as its bustling neighbor to the west, but much quieter and, some argue, more authentic to the Italian way of life.
The contrast between Positano and Praiano, even during the quieter season, could not be starker. When I visited the area in late October, as many of the hotels were preparing to close for the winter, Positano was still packed with people. The town felt like a tourist trap or a Disneyland attraction, designed to evoke the feel of the Amalfi Coast in the most clichéd way. I left after just a few hours, eager to return to the charming streets of Praiano, which feel much less like a movie set and more like a place you could live.
Home to approximately 2,100 people, Praiano is particularly quaint, thanks in part to its small size, stretching along the Italian coast between Positano and Amalfi. It would probably go completely unnoticed by tourists if it weren’t for her home Casa Angelinaa luxury hotel that opened in 2005 by Antonino Cappiellowho transformed an existing 1970s property into something much grander.
The location of the hotel offers the best view on the Amalfi Coast, at least according to Casa Angelinamanaging director, Domenico De Simone. From the town and from Casa Angelina, you can see Capri, Li Galli and Positano, providing a sense of the true extent of the region. “Praiano is the last village here that is authentic, real, real and very quiet,” De Simone tells the Observer.
Casa Angelina is perched on top of steep cliffs on the west side of Praiano. Guests have access to La Gavitella Beach Cluba private club located down dozens of stairs, but the best way to get into town is through a discreet side door from the pool deck. It opens onto the maze of narrow streets that surround the hotel, where cats sun themselves and teenagers wander around playing music on a weekend afternoon. Roads eventually lead to Parish of San Gennarothe parish church, which first opened its doors in 1589. There are several other hotels and apartments for rent, including contemporary and intimate Onda Verde Hotel and as budget friendly as possible The Divine Amalfi Coastas well as some local shops and restaurants along the main road. Further east, Marina di Praia, a hidden harbor, is home to fishermen, cafes and an intimate beach.
Travelers can easily access Positano, Amalfi and Ravello by car or bus. Casa Angelina offers an hourly shuttle that runs between the hotel and Positano (it takes less than 10 minutes), although De Simone notes that many guests don’t stay long, especially during the busiest summer months, which is exactly what I experienced. “In the last two years, the real situation is that people go to Positano, spend a maximum of two hours there and have a very bad experience,” he says.
Praiano is extremely well located. “It’s really easy for all our guests to reach all the surrounding areas,” Antonia Gambardella, one of Casa Angelina’s concierge specialists, says. “Positano is an iconic destination, but it’s really crowded. Praiano evokes an authenticity that the rest of the towns on the Amalfi Coast are missing a bit.”
The idea of authenticity is repeated often. It’s something that’s hard to explain definitively, but you can certainly feel it. Praiano is smaller than the surrounding towns; it is less than a square mile. Children play football in front of the church and families take weekend walks along the coast. The cafes are frequented by locals, who seem unfazed by visitors. Despite its size, there is plenty to do. Praiano is located at a key point along the Path of the Gods, a hiking trail that stretches from Bomerano to Nocelle. The whole trail, which is best done in spring or autumn when the weather is less intense, is about six kilometers long and takes the better part of a day due to the steepness. The catch is that to access the trail from Praiano, you have to climb about 1,000 steps. It’s an intense climb, but worth it for the views.
An easier stroll is into town, where visitors can stroll up to Torre a Mare, a medieval tower, or follow the coastal road to Marina di Praia, which can be reached on foot via a winding path. Unlike the crowded beach clubs in Positano, the small beach at Marina di Praia is secluded and often packed with locals. It is there that Di Martino recommends Trattoria Da Armandinoa family-owned waterfront restaurant that has been around for over 100 years. “The seafood is very fresh because the fishermen catch it in the morning and then serve it at night,” she says.
“This particular restaurant is iconic throughout the Amalfi Coast because it is one of the few restaurants that still has its own fishermen,” adds Gambardella. “It’s usually older fishermen in their boats at 2 in the morning, and in the morning they bring back everything they catch during the night. Praiano is famous for totani, which are a type of squid that must be caught at night.”
Totani, a variety of European squid, are found in the waters along the Amalfi Coast. They are so plentiful that Praiano has a special dish made from them known as totani e potato, a combination of squid and fried potatoes with olive oil, tomatoes and garlic. It’s a rustic yet hearty and surprisingly light dish. It is available in many of the restaurants, but those who want to better understand the connection between the sea and the plate can join Casa Angelina for a squid fishing expedition at night. The experience is available between May and September, depending on sea and weather conditions, and is a great way to be part of local tradition.
Enjoying seafood is important in Praiano. Although travelers can find the expected Italian fare, such as pasta and pizza, around the Amalfi Coast, simple dishes of fresh fish, especially totani and pezzogna, reflect what the locals eat, again offering a true experience of the area. Other important dining options include Lion’s Taverna family-owned site dating back to 1965, and Km0 restauranta newer restaurant that focuses on hyper-local ingredients and also offers cooking classes. For breathtaking views, book a terrace table at The Pirate Restaurant.
There is less shopping in Praiano than in Positano, but what you find is often more interesting. Read on Notice board for gift-worthy homewares. IN Rosalinda Flowers Labwhich offers flower arrangements for high-end weddings, passers-by will often encounter an elderly man weaving flower baskets outside.
“Praiano almost takes us back to ancient times, where there were more emotional and family ties,” says Gambardella. “We have some guests who leave our short road and say, ‘I found your neighbor and he asked me to come in and have a coffee’. It’s really simple, but at the same time, it’s so authentic and so emotional that in the more famous parts you can’t find it. Here, there’s a part of life that’s quiet. You feel the rhythm of local life and that’s very beautiful.”
In October, Praiano was quiet to the point where it almost felt abandoned – except for the cats, of course. Positano, on the other hand, was chaotic and noisy. It is not surprising; Positano attracts more than 12,000 visitors every day between Easter and October and nearly 5 million visitors per year. There are no widely available numbers for Praiano, but likely much less. It gets busier in July and August, like the rest of the coast, although it doesn’t feel the same way as Positano. Traveling during the shoulder seasons in spring and fall can help ensure complete peace.
This tranquil feeling is enhanced by the water views and intense sunsets that unfold each evening. They were especially focused on the shade in October, which many of the Casa Angelina employees said is characteristic of the time of year. Some locals even refer to Praiano as the “sunset city”.
“Every sunset, every month, every year is different,” confirms De Simone. “You come to the Amalfi Coast and Praiano and Casa Angelina to see the sunset and the panorama.”
The allure of the Amalfi Coast is definitely undeniable, especially the way it’s framed on Instagram, where the crowds are often cut off. Positano’s over-tourism can be overwhelming and spoil what a trip to the region should feel like. While there are some compelling destinations nearby, including Ravello and Atrani, for a certain type of traveler, it’s more appealing to stay outside the tourist fray. Praiano may not be as dramatic as Positano, but it has something more important: the feeling of being at home.
