Switzerland lives up to its postcard image: sparkling lakes, chocolate-box villages and snow-dusted Alpine resorts.
But today, it comes with challenges. Impressive prices, overcrowding, and an elite reputation can make it feel out of reach for the average traveler.
Not much can be done to make Switzerland cheaper. Extremely high wages and government regulations contribute to the cost of living the most expensive in the world.
But if it is severe obesity this is driving you, i found a solution.
Go to Vaud, a mountainous district bounded by Lake Geneva to the south and France to the west.
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Just remember to avoid Lausanne, the Olympic capital, which is navigable in summer.
Famous for his focus on ‘slow’ tourism‘, this storybook canton is a great destination for anyone looking to take matters into their own hands and fully immerse themselves in the local culture.
And like all things in life, here, the best things are free: swimming in lakes, strolling through markets and hiking in the mountains.
Morges… Switzerland’s most beautiful destination?
My journey began in Morges, a historic town about 40 minutes from Geneva that was founded in 1286.
When I asked my guide, Stefanie, what makes it special, she said it’s because it doesn’t have a title attraction.
Instead, its appeal lies in its natural beauty, laid-back atmosphere and spectacular (really, spectacular) countryside.
Elegant lakeside hotels sit next to independent cafes and colorful flower displays line the waterfront.
Every spring since 1971, the Tulip Festival transforms the waterfront into a riot of color with more than 140,000 bulbs planted in parks and promenades.
Tulips originate from the Himalayas and have only been introduced there Europe in the middle of the 16th century.
Running from April to May, it attracts around 300,000 visitors each year and is one of the biggest spring events in the region.
The surrounding villages are equally charming.
Stefanie explains that many have strict rules about the colors residents can use, to keep a consistent look.
This is Switzerland we’re talking about, so I’m told these rules are taken LOT seriously.
Across the seafront in Morges, visitors can stop by Espace 81, a contemporary art gallery hosting a temporary Audrey Hepburn exhibition this WINE.
Also worth visiting is the Jan Michalski Foundation in the nearby municipality of Montricher.
Nestled among the hills, it feels like a secret – a place built on the arts, drawing inspiration from Scandinavian authors and designers and architects from Brazil AND Chile.
Its most striking feature is the collection of towering writers’ residences that resemble modern treehouses.
But if there’s one place to go above all others, it’s Château de Vullierens.
Just outside the town of Morges, and easily accessible by car or bus, the historic family estate spans more than 100 hectares, including six hectares of vineyards that look like the cluster of a period drama.
Here I learned something surprising: Swiss wine is almost never exported.
The country produces 99 million liters per year and consumes the vast majority domestically.
This makes tasting them in the region where they are produced feel special.
Usually a wine tasting experience it costs about 92 CHF (£85), so while it’s not the cheapest activity, it’s worth it if you’re a serious enthusiast.
At the base, you’ll also have access to themed walks, contemporary sculptures and tons of flowers.
Nyon
For the second half of the trip, I headed to Nyonanother lakeside town that feels distinctly different to Morges but is only 20 minutes by train.
Fares, refreshingly, from £6.50 one way.
Where Morges is elegant and floral, Nyon is more rooted in its past, founded by the Romans under Julius Caesar between 50 and 44 BC.
One of the first things I noticed was the abundance of natural sources of the drink. They are everywhere – draped in squares, lining streets and popping up around corners.
My guide, Heidi, tells me that everyone uses them and they are all preserved, allowing locals to feel part of ancient history.
The city has a self-guided Tintin tour, celebrating the famous comic character’s connection to the region, and has other attractions such as the Swiss National Motorcycle Museum and the Musée du Léman – Lake Geneva Museum.
For a taste of local cuisine, book a table at Chez Mon Oncle, a Nyon institution.
Expect to pay around CHF 95 (£88) for a hearty meal for two, and be sure to order the cheese specialities, such as the Malakoff, which show the canton’s indulgent side.
Rested and refueled, I then set off on a section of the famous Toblerone Trail, named for the anti-tank fortifications built during World War II, whose triangular shape resembles the iconic Swiss chocolate.
The 18km walk takes you through around 3,000 triangular tank traps hidden among leafy trees and roaring rivers, between the Jura peaks and Lake Geneva.
My only gripe is that the name is misleading. You won’t find any chocolate on this trail!
If you have time, try to get to Rolle, a charming lakeside town where you can see the Île de la Harpe – the only island in Lake Geneva.
For my last morning in Nyon, I browsed the Sunday market, where stalls are filled with local cheeses like raclette, as well as cured meats, fresh bread, honey, nougat, rotisserie, olives and fresh vegetables that showcase the region’s agricultural prowess.
Nyon is also home to the Paléo Festival, one of Switzerland’s biggest music events, where locals enjoy free live music, shows and cultural events.
It runs from July 21-26, but you should plan for 2027; this year’s event is already sold out.
As I spent the last few hours relaxing by Lake Geneva, I reflected that Vaud achieves exactly what it sets out to do.
It didn’t overwhelm me with bucket list attractions or jam-packed itineraries.
Instead, it encouraged me to slow down, look around and appreciate the little things.
Getting there
SWISS Airlines fly direct from London to Geneva from £113. The journey takes about two hours.
There is a train station at Geneva Airport with services that will have you in Vaud in less than an hour.
Once there, public transport makes getting around relatively simple. A one-way journey from Geneva Airport to Morges costs around CHF 16 (£15), depending on the type of ticket and the time of travel.
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