There are a few standard sites to see when in Istanbul. The great mosques and the Grand Bazaar. Tolls, bridges and historic architecture are not lacking. Galata and hammam. You eat kebabs, and – if you’re smart – prodigious amounts of baklava. The city’s contemporary art scene, however, tends to be overlooked, even though Istanbul now boasts an impressive museum, in addition to the multitude of large galleries and other casual art encounters scattered around the city.
I’ve spent a lot of time in Istanbul over the last decade, but every time I go, the reopening of Modern Istanbul— closed for renovation and relocation in 2018 — was delayed again. The museum officially opened in its new building on the seafront of the Karaköy district in 2023; I finally saw it in 2025. By then, its reputation was somewhat tarnished (more on that below), but its extensive collection provided an excellent introduction to some of Turkey’s most essential artists through a large permanent collection and several large-scale temporary exhibitions each year. If you are not familiar with Turkish art, there are a few works in particular to keep an eye on.
Fahrelnissa ZeidS ‘ My hell is a pervasive explosion of geometric abstraction. A Muslim princess who became one of the first women to attend art school in Istanbul, Zeid was an important avant-garde artist during the 1940s and would show this painting in 1954 at the Institute of Contemporary Art in London, the first solo exhibition by a woman.
Azade KokerS ‘ The landscape of silence it is equally impressive in scale. From a distance, her 18-foot-wide canvas depicts a peaceful forest, but upon closer inspection, you realize the forest is made up of human skulls—the artist’s meditation on a world without us. Many will recognize the inspiration for Neo-Expressionist Bedri Beykamit is massive Gérôme, this is my bathroom. A Double Adaptation of Ingres’ Turkish bath and Gérôme’s Grand Bath in Bursaprovides a fascinating critique of Orientalism. It is smaller in size but not in importance Cihat BurakS ‘ Death of a poeta triptych portrait of Nazim Hikmetleft-wing midcentury poet imprisoned for his politics then forced to flee before dying in exile.
I find the inclusion of the latter work somewhat surprising given the accusations of politically motivated censorship directed at Istanbul Modern in recent years. Turkey has become increasingly autocratic during President Erdogan’s two decades in power, with an ever-tightening noose around the arts, media and political opposition. One can see how such a thing would affect a museum’s collection; a tribute to a leftist martyr is not something you expect to see here.
But here it is. And as you wander through the city’s smaller art galleries, you’ll come across a lot of art that could be interpreted as subversive. The Taksim Square area is best known for its shopping and dining, but is also filled with art spaces. Mesher is one of the largest, offering a changing variety of mixed media exhibits. Similarly it is lying Beyoglu saltwhich, in addition to art exhibitions, houses a cinema, bookstore and winter garden. And right down the road it is Gallery Nev Istanbula one-room gallery offering a small but attractive variety of pieces.
North of Taksim in the bustling residential neighborhood of Dolapdere is Arterywhich was the city’s largest contemporary art museum until Istanbul Modern reopened and is an essential stop for anyone looking for the latest in Turkish art. It’s only a block away Dirimartwhich highlights emerging talent. On the Asian side of the city near the fashionable Moda district is the Gazhane Museum, which is definitely my favorite art venue in Istanbul. Once a rusting gas plant, the space has been repurposed into a community center with galleries, cafes, a library and other creative spaces, all set amidst a jungle of restored industrial architecture.
To get the best view of any or all of these, you should carefully consider where you will be staying. Istanbul is incredible, and if you end up in the wrong place, you’ll spend your entire visit beating traffic from the back of a taxi. Many make the mistake of staying as close as possible to Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. That’s fine in theory if that area is all you care to see, but if you’re trying to see the aforementioned art opportunities, you’ll spend a lot of time traveling.
For easy access to both Taksim and Istanbul Modern galleries, book a room at The Ritz-Carltonwhich offers a refined experience and wonderful views. Two nearby options are Park Hyatt Macka Palas and St. Regis, which are relatively close to Taksim while taking a step towards Arteri and Dirimart. Both are architectural marvels and both offer extremely luxurious accommodation. If you are trying to divide your time between Modern Istanbul, galleries and Fashion, the Conrad Bosphorus is located near the bridge between the two sides of the city and offers a dazzling panorama of the city and the sea.
Finally, I would like to provide an alternative to the Grand Bazaar, whose prices have exploded over the past decade while the quality of goods has declined. It’s worth checking out, but once you’re done being overwhelmed by its crowds, head to the Fatih Sultan Bazaar on the west side of the Fatih Mosque. Here you will find handicrafts, textiles, soaps, incense, food products and much more. It’s a market that tends to cater to locals rather than tourists, and unlike more popular markets, it still retains an authentic artisanal atmosphere.
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